The 10 Best Things to Do in Varanasi
Varanasi - India's holiest city - needs little introduction.
It's here that Hindus achieve Moksha - release from the cycle of death and rebirth - by being cremated on the banks of the holy River Ganges. One of the oldest continually-habited cities in the world, this is where life and death coexist; where ancient tradition is kept alive; where an entire religion comes to bid goodbye to the dead.
It's the definitive place to witness India's spiritual rhythms at their most raw and unfiltered. Few leave Varanasi unchanged.
When I first travelled here, I spent almost two weeks in the city, taking in its intense atmosphere, surreal views of the Ganges and the mad, frenetic crowds of pilgrims, travelling families and tourists.
It's a place I'll always be drawn back to in India, and one of the few places on Earth that is truly one-of-a-kind.
Here are ten of the best things you can do to make the most of your time in this unforgettable city.
Take a Sunrise Boat Ride
Watching the sun rise over the holy River Ganges as the chants of early morning rituals fill the air is simply a once-in-a-lifetime experience and the definitive moment of most trips to Varanasi.
You can see everything from the Ganges; young priests in training start their morning exercises; travelling worshippers take their first dip in the river; the crowds of pilgrims begin to grow. It's a magical way to see the most spiritual city on earth come to life. As the morning mist clears, you'll see Varanasi's expanse of temples, lit up by the morning sun, stretch all the way along the river and off into the horizon.
If you only have time for one activity in Varanasi, make it this.
Whilst there are motorised boats which take dozens of visitors at a time, the most peaceful way to enjoy the sunrise at Varanasi is to take a row boat, which will last an hour and cost around ₹600. You'll be offered one of these boat rides from pushy touts the moment you arrive in Varanasi, and many will try to overcharge. Haggle, and walk away if they don't lower their price.
Visit the Burning Ghat
Varanasi is perhaps most famous for the Manikarnika Ghat, a series of steps leading down to the river Ganges where the bodies of Hindus are publicly cremated.
To be cremated at Varanasi is one of the highest honours in Hinduism, and is said to help the deceased achieve ‘Moksha’ - release from the endless cycle of death and rebirth.
It’s a sombre, humbling spectacle to witness, but one that shouldn’t be missed. You'll see bodies typically (though not always) draped in a concealing veil, carried on a wooden plinth by the family to the pyres, at which point the body is installed for cremation. Members of the Dom Hindu caste then maintain the fire to ensure the body is fully cremated before the ashes are gathered and scattered into the Ganges.
Around the ghat, you’ll see the huge stockpiles of wood used to keep the fires burning round-the-clock, such is the constant demand for cremations at Varanasi. Different wood is available and each confers a unique meaning for the family of the deceased.
Visitors are welcome to spend as much time as they want at the Manikarnika Ghat, but dressing respectfully is essential and photography is strictly prohibited.
Watch the Evening Ganga Aarti
Varanasi’s evening Aarti ceremony sees huge crowds gather by the Ganges to give praise to Hinduism's holy river. It's a crowded, noisy spectacle and one that perfectly captures the religious fervour of the city. Priests wearing traditional attire perform intricate rituals with brass lamps, incense, and flowers, creating a spectacle of light and sound that captivates the crowds who line the ghats.
The rhythmic chanting, the hypnotic movements of the lamps, and the collective devotion of the worshippers create an atmosphere charged with spiritual energy, making the evening Aarti a truly unforgettable experience in Varanasi.
If you want a seat at the crowded central Aarti, plan to arrive an hour in advance, or be prepared to stand. The ceremony begins at around 18:00 in winter and 19:00 in summer.
There are two main venues for the evening Ganga Aarti at Varanasi, one close to the burning Ghats and another just a minute's walk south. But the best is at Assi Ghat, one of Varanasi's most southern ghats, where the crowds are less and the mass tourism is slightly more restrained.
Another option is to take a boat onto the Ganges to watch the Aarti from the river for ₹100, providing a whole new perspective on the ceremony and the mass of devotees behind, though the boats can often get just as crowded.
Ascend to Lassi Heaven at Blue Lassi
Aside from Hinduism’s most sacred river, Varanasi is also home to arguably the best Lassi shop in all of India: Blue Lassi!
Lassi is typically a simple yoghurt drink - either sweet or salty - served in a clay cup, but Blue Lassi kicks things up a notch. Climb inside from the busy street and you'll find a dizzying menu of flavours and toppings; toffee and banana; coconut and pomegranate. It's the perfect break from Varanasi's intense heat and a joy to watch the owner whizz up a dozen lassis whilst sat cross-legged at the shop's entrance.
If you're staying for multiple days in Varanasi, expect a stop-off here to quickly become part of your daily routine.
As with many other famous food stalls in India, imitations are everywhere - the one linked to is the real deal. Expect to pay around ₹80.
Sample Varanasi's Street Food
People Watch at the Ghats
Varanasi's ghats are the ultimate people-watching spot, and one of the best ways to spend a couple of hours during the day. Simply take a seat and absorb the rituals, characters and traditions that make up the city;
Take it all in from a Rooftop Restaurant
After a long, tiring day of exploring, the best way to enjoy an evening in Varanasi is retreating to one of the city's many rooftop restaurants
to enjoy a meal overlooking the Ganges. You'll hear the faint chimes of the Aarti ceremony from the shores below and have a gorgeous view over the river at sunset.
Getting to Varanasi
Varanasi is situated in the northern Indian state of Uttar Pradesh, the country's most populous state. Getting to the city is relatively easy: both the Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport and Varanasi Junction Railway Station have frequent connections to the major cities of Delhi and Kolkata, as well as daily connections to the surrounding cities of Lucknow, Allahabad and Patna.